Probiotics have provided significant evidence to treat intestinal disorders, immune boosting, dental caries and urogenital infections. Probiotics also performs various role in skin heath, such as reconstructing atopic dermatitis, promoting the healing of scars and burns, rejuvenating the skin and strengthening the skin’s innate immunity. Before employing the probiotics for skin health, their cosmetic potential is needed to be evaluated.

Lactobacillus helveticus MTCC 5463, a probiotic culture of Indian origin, was tested for its potential cosmetic application, first by testing its antimicrobial activity against skin pathogens i.e. Staphylococcus aureus MTCC 3160, Staphylococcus epidermidis MTCC 435 and Propionibacterium acnes MTCC 1951, which are responsible for different skin disorders. Results of antimicrobial assay using spot inoculation test revealed that the diameter of zone of inhibition was largest against S. aureus (27.20 mm) compared to S. epidermidis (20.98 mm) and P. acnes (24.50 mm).

Determination of antimicrobial activity by co-culture methods demonstrated that live cells were more effective in inhibiting the growth of pathogens as compared to lysate and cell free supernatant of MTCC 5463. In S. aureus, the inhibition was found to be highest (34.82%) when co-incubated with live cells followed by CFS (5.86%) and lysate (5.38%) of MTCC 5463. The percentage inhibition by live cells, CFS and lysate was reported to be 23.1 %, 8.94 % and 7.98 % against S. epidermidis respectively. P. acnes were inhibited to an extent of 16.81%, 14.38% and 11.31% when co-cultured with live cells, CFS and lysate of MTCC 5463.

Tyrosinase enzyme inhibition and copper chelating ability were used to determine the ability of MTCC 5463 for skin lightening. In tyrosinase inhibition, the CFS of whey fermented with MTCC 5463 showed 93.52% inhibition whereas CFS of unfermented whey had only 7.09% inhibition. Dilution of whey upto 40% had more than 50% inhibitory effect on tyrosinase enzyme. The inhibition effect on tyrosinase was found to be rising with increased concentration of whey.

Cell free supernatant of whey fermented with MTCC 5463 chelated 27.00 µg/ml of copper as compared to 18.30 µg/ml in case of unfermented whey. The amount of copper chelated increased with increasing concentration of whey.

The anti-wrinkle ability was determined by analyzing the anti-oxidant ability. Antioxidant ability of whey fermented with MTCC 5463 was found to be 38.77%, whereas unfermented whey had 14.69 % ABTS activity.

Different face creams were formulated using probiotic culture (Market cream, Market cream + MTCC 5463 pellet, Base control cream, Base cream + MTCC 5463 pellet and Base cream + Dahi powder) and their antimicrobial activity was evaluated against Staphylococcus aureus MTCC 3160, Staphylococcus epidermidis MTCC 435 and Propionibacterium acnes MTCC 1951. The base cream containing live cells of MTCC 5463 had the most potent antimicrobial activity. S. aureus was highly inhibited pathogen among the three. The creams were then kept for storage study at 37°C and 7°C and examined for different parameters- change in pH, moisture (%) and viable count of MTCC 5463 for three months.

The results showed that all the creams had pH in the acceptable range (4-6) even after 3 months of storage at 37°C and 7°C. The average pH of creams stored at 7°C was slightly higher than that of 37°C.The moisture content of the creams reduced with the time of storage at 7°C and 37°C.

The results of viable count of MTCC 5463 demonstrated that cells were more viable at 7°C. With time, the viable count significantly decreased at both the temperatures. The base cream containing live cells of MTCC 5463 was having the highest count of viable cells at both the temperatures. The average viable count of market cream + MTCC 5463, base cream + MTCC 5463 and base cream + dahi powder at 37°C was found to be 7.31, 7.53 and 6.13 log cfu/g respectively. At 7°C, the average viable count was reported to be 8.01, 8.34 and 6.87 log cfu/g for market cream + MTCC 5463, base cream + MTCC 5463 and base cream + dahi powder respectively.

No color change was observed, pH remained within normal physiological range of skin pH, liquefaction and phase separation was negligible in all the creams except in market cream containing live cells of MTCC 5463 kept at 37°C during storage studies. Therefore, the different formulation can be considered stable.

Based on the results of pH, moisture, viable count and antimicrobial activity, the base cream containing live cells of MTCC 5463 was found to be most suitable for cosmetic application. The pH and moisture were acceptable even after 3 months of storage. The viable count was more than 6 log cfu/g, which is sufficient to positively affect the skin health.

Lactobacillus helveticus MTCC 5463 has potential cosmetic activity and the face cream developed using MTCC 5463 had more than three months shelf life and can be a potential substitute for generally used antibiotic/antifungal agents to treat skin disorders.